How To Grow Taro Root

Growing taro root is easier than you might think! Whether you’re dreaming of homemade poi or just want to add a lush, tropical vibe to your garden, taro is a rewarding choice. This guide will walk you through exactly how to grow taro root, from picking the perfect spot to harvesting those delicious tubers.

How to Grow Taro Root: Step-by-Step Guide

Selecting the Best Taro Corms or Tubers for Planting

Start by choosing healthy, firm taro corms or tubers with no signs of rot or mold. Look for ones with visible eyes or buds, as these are where the new shoots will emerge.

If you’re buying from a store, opt for organic or locally sourced varieties to ensure they’re free from chemicals. You can also use corms from a previous harvest, but make sure they’re fully dried and stored properly before planting.

Avoid using small or shriveled tubers, as they may not produce strong plants. For best results, select disease-free corms that are at least the size of a fist. This ensures they have enough energy to grow into robust plants.

If you’re unsure, soak the corms in water for a few hours—healthy ones will float, while rotten ones will sink.

Preparing the Soil and Planting Depth

Taro thrives in rich, loamy soil with excellent drainage. Mix in plenty of organic compost or well-rotted manure to boost fertility. The soil should be slightly acidic, with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5. Plant the corms about 2–3 inches deep, with the budding side facing up.

Space them 12–18 inches apart to give the plants room to spread. If you’re growing in containers, use a large pot with drainage holes and fill it with a mix of potting soil and compost.

Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged, as taro loves water but can rot if it’s too soggy. Mulching around the base helps retain moisture and suppress weeds.

For the best start, plant in a sunny or partially shaded spot where the plant can get at least 6 hours of sunlight daily.

Ideal Planting Times and Climate Conditions

Plant taro in warm climates when the soil temperature is consistently above 70°F (21°C). In tropical or subtropical regions, you can plant year-round, but in cooler areas, aim for late spring to early summer.

Taro grows best in high humidity and requires at least 6 months of frost-free weather to mature. If you live in a colder climate, start taro indoors in pots and move them outside once the weather warms up.

Avoid planting during frost or extreme heat, as both can stress the plants. Taro loves water, so if you’re in a dry region, consider growing it near a pond or in a boggy area. Keep an eye on the weather—prolonged cold can stunt growth or kill the plant.

With the right timing and conditions, you’ll harvest healthy taro roots in about 7–12 months.

Where Does Taro Grow Best? Sunlight and Location

Full Sun vs. Partial Shade: What Taro Needs

Taro is a versatile plant that loves warmth, generally thriving best in full sun to partial shade. If you live in a hot climate, providing some afternoon shade is actually beneficial because it prevents the large leaves from scorching in the intense heat.

Ideally, you should aim for at least six hours of direct sunlight each day to encourage robust tuber growth, but don’t stress if your garden isn’t bathed in sun all day long.

In cooler regions, maximizing sun exposure is crucial to keep the soil warm enough for the roots to develop properly. Remember, taro is a tropical plant, so consistency is key.

Whether you choose a sunny spot or a lightly shaded area, just ensure the location protects your plant from harsh, cold winds which can damage those beautiful, broad leaves significantly.

Growing Taro in Pots vs. In-Ground Beds

You can successfully grow taro in both containers and garden beds, but your choice depends on space and climate control. Growing in pots offers excellent flexibility, allowing you to move the plants indoors when temperatures drop, which is perfect for growers outside the tropics.

Containers also make it much easier to manage the high moisture levels taro requires without waterlogging your entire garden. On the other hand, planting in-ground beds allows the roots to spread freely, potentially leading to a larger harvest.

If you choose to plant directly in the soil, pick a spot with excellent drainage and rich, organic matter. Whether you use a large tub or a traditional garden plot, ensure the soil remains consistently moist but never completely dry to support healthy root development.

Creating a Bog or Wetland Environment for Taro

Because taro naturally grows in swampy areas, recreating a bog environment will yield the best results. This plant is thirsty and thrives when its roots are constantly wet, similar to rice or lotus.

You don’t necessarily need a full pond; simply digging a trench and lining it with plastic to hold water can work wonders. Alternatively, plant your taro near the edge of a water feature where runoff will keep the soil saturated.

If you are growing in containers, place a saucer underneath the pot filled with water to maintain high humidity and moisture levels around the roots. This consistent availability of water prevents the tubers from becoming fibrous or stunted.

Always remember that regular garden soil moisture isn’t usually enough; thinking like a wetland gardener is the secret to a massive taro harvest.

Essential Care Tips for Healthy Taro Plants

Watering Frequency: Keeping the Soil Constantly Moist

Growing taro successfully means mimicking its natural tropical habitat, which requires paying close attention to hydration. Unlike many garden vegetables, taro craves constant moisture and should never be allowed to dry out completely between waterings.

If the soil feels even slightly dry to the touch, it is time to water immediately. For the best results, you should aim to keep the soil consistently damp, similar to a wrung-out sponge, throughout the entire growing season.

In hotter climates or during peak summer heat, this might mean watering daily to prevent stress on the plant. Some dedicated growers even choose to grow taro in shallow water or bog-like conditions, as this plant thrives when its roots are wet.

Remember that inconsistent watering can lead to stunted growth and poor tuber development, so establishing a regular routine is vital for a bountiful harvest of large, healthy roots.

Fertilizing Schedule for Maximum Root Growth

To produce those large, delicious tubers you are after, you need to feed your plants regularly because taro is often considered a heavy feeder. Start by mixing a generous amount of rich compost or well-rotted manure into the soil before you even plant your corms.

Once the plants are established and growing, apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer every four to six weeks to sustain their vigorous leaf production and root expansion. You want to look for a fertilizer higher in nitrogen to support lush foliage initially, which helps fuel the tubers underground.

If you notice the leaves turning pale yellow, this is a clear sign that your plant is hungry and needs an immediate nutrient boost. Consistent feeding is the secret to ensuring the energy goes straight into developing substantial, starchy roots rather than just maintaining leaves.

Mulching to Retain Moisture and Suppress Weeds

Applying a thick layer of organic mulch around your taro plants is one of the simplest ways to ensure a vigorous crop. Mulching is incredibly effective for moisture retention, keeping the soil cool and damp even on the hottest days, which directly reduces your watering workload.

Use materials like straw, shredded leaves, or grass clippings to create a barrier about three inches thick around the base of the plants. This layer not only locks in water but also effectively suppresses weeds that would otherwise compete with your taro for essential nutrients.

Additionally, as the organic mulch breaks down over time, it adds valuable organic matter back into the soil, improving its structure and fertility naturally. Just be careful to leave a small gap around the plant stem to prevent rot, ensuring your tubers can develop without obstruction.

How to Transplant and Space Taro for Optimal Yields

When and How to Transplant Taro Seedlings

Transplant your taro seedlings once they’ve developed at least 3-4 healthy leaves and are about 4-6 inches tall, usually 4-6 weeks after sprouting. Choose a warm, cloudy day or late afternoon to reduce transplant shock.

Dig holes slightly larger than the root ball and place each seedling carefully, ensuring the top of the corm sits just below the soil surface. Firm the soil gently around the base to eliminate air pockets, then water thoroughly to help roots settle.

Taro loves moisture, so keep the soil consistently damp but not waterlogged. If you’re growing in containers, use a large pot with drainage holes and a rich, loamy soil mix. This gives the roots room to expand while retaining necessary moisture.

Transplanting at the right stage ensures your taro establishes quickly and grows vigorously, leading to a bountiful harvest of hearty roots.

Proper Spacing Between Plants for Air Circulation

Space your taro plants 3-4 feet apart in rows that are 4-5 feet apart to allow for plenty of airflow and room for growth. Taro produces large, lush leaves that can easily shade out neighboring plants if spaced too closely, which invites fungal diseases and reduces yields.

Proper spacing ensures each plant gets ample sunlight and nutrients from the soil, leading to healthier, larger roots. If you’re gardening in a smaller area, consider planting in raised beds or wide containers to give roots adequate space to spread. Avoid overcrowding, as this competes for resources and stunts growth.

Good air circulation also helps prevent common issues like leaf blight, keeping your garden thriving. Remember, taro is a heavy feeder, so give it room to flourish—your future harvest will thank you for the extra care and planning.

Thinning Seedlings to Prevent Overcrowding

If you’ve sown taro seeds directly or notice multiple seedlings sprouting close together, thin them out to prevent overcrowding. Keep the strongest, healthiest seedling and gently remove the others by snipping them at soil level to avoid disturbing the roots of the remaining plant.

Thinning ensures that resources like water, nutrients, and sunlight are focused on a single robust plant, boosting its growth potential. Overcrowded plants compete for these essentials, leading to smaller corms and weaker stalks. Aim for one plant every 3-4 feet, as this spacing promotes optimal tuber development.

Regularly check your patch and remove any weak or spindly growth throughout the season. This simple step prevents diseases caused by poor airflow and encourages your taro to channel energy into producing large, flavorful roots. Stay consistent with thinning for the best results and a more manageable garden.

Managing Pests and Diseases in Taro Plants

Common Pests: Taro Beetles, Aphids, and Spider Mites

When growing taro, keeping an eye out for hungry pests is essential to protect your crop. Taro beetles are a common nuisance, boring into the corms and stems, which can stunt growth or even kill the plant. To spot them, check for tunnels in the soil or wilting leaves.

Aphids and spider mites are smaller but just as troublesome, clustering on the undersides of leaves to suck sap and weaken the plant. Regularly inspect your taro patches, especially during warm, dry weather when these pests thrive.

If you notice curled or yellowing leaves, flip them over to look for tiny insects or fine webs. Early intervention is key—remove infested leaves by hand or knock pests off with a strong stream of water.

Keeping the area free of weeds and debris also reduces hiding spots for these unwanted visitors.

Identifying and Treating Taro Leaf Blight

Taro leaf blight is a fungal disease that can quickly devastate your plants if left unchecked. Look for small, water-soaked spots on leaves that expand into large, brown lesions with yellow halos. In humid conditions, you might see fuzzy growth on the spots.

To manage this, avoid wetting the foliage when watering, as moisture encourages fungal spread. Remove infected leaves immediately and dispose of them away from your garden to prevent further contamination. Improve air circulation by spacing plants properly and pruning overcrowded areas.

If the problem persists, apply a copper-based fungicide as a last resort, following the instructions carefully. Crop rotation also helps break the disease cycle. By staying vigilant and acting quickly at the first sign of trouble, you can keep taro leaf blight from spreading and protect your harvest.

Organic Solutions for Pest and Disease Control

For natural pest control, try introducing beneficial insects like ladybugs or lacewings, which feast on aphids and mites. Neem oil spray is another effective, eco-friendly option that targets pests without harming your plants.

Mix it according to the label and apply it in the early morning or late evening to avoid sunburning the leaves. For fungal issues, a baking soda solution can help prevent mildew and blight—just mix a teaspoon with water and a drop of soap.

Encourage biodiversity by planting companion crops like marigolds or basil, which repel pests and attract pollinators. Mulching with organic material also suppresses weeds and retains soil moisture, making your taro more resilient. These organic methods are safer for your family and the environment while keeping your garden thriving.

When and How to Harvest Taro Roots

Signs Your Taro Is Ready for Harvest

You’ll know your taro roots are ready for harvest when the leaves start to yellow and die back, usually 7-12 months after planting. This natural decline signals that the plant is redirecting energy into the corms.

Gently brush away soil around the base of the plant to check the size—if the corms are about the size of a fist or larger, they’re likely ready. Smaller corms can still be harvested but may yield less.

Another sign is the plant’s overall height; mature taro plants often grow tall and lush before fading. Harvesting too early results in smaller roots, so patience pays off.

If you’re unsure, wait a few more weeks to ensure maximum size and flavor, especially since taro stores well in the ground until you’re ready to use it.

Digging Up Taro Without Damaging the Corms

To harvest taro without harming the corms, start by watering the soil thoroughly a day before digging—this softens the ground, making extraction easier. Use a garden fork or spade to loosen the soil around the plant, keeping at least 6-12 inches away from the base to avoid piercing the corms.

Once the soil is loose, gently lift the plant by its stems or use your hands to pull the corms free. Shake off excess dirt and rinse with water. If a corm resists, don’t force it—instead, dig deeper to avoid breakage. Damaged corms spoil faster, so handle them carefully.

For smaller harvests, you can even remove individual corms while leaving the main plant in the ground for future growth.

Curing and Storing Freshly Harvested Taro

After harvesting, cure your taro by letting it dry in a shady, well-ventilated area for 1-2 days. This toughens the skin and extends shelf life. Avoid direct sunlight, as it can cause sunscald.

Once cured, brush off any remaining soil and store taro in a cool, dry place like a pantry or cellar, ideally at 50-60°F (10-15°C). Don’t refrigerate raw taro—cold temperatures can turn the flesh mushy and affect flavor. Properly cured taro can last several weeks.

For longer storage, consider peeling, blanching, and freezing the corms. Always check for soft spots or mold before storing, as one bad corm can spoil others. With these steps, your homegrown taro will stay fresh and ready for delicious meals.

Propagating Taro for Future Harvests

Saving Corms and Tubers for Next Season

To ensure a steady supply of taro, start by saving healthy corms and tubers from your harvest. Choose firm, disease-free roots and brush off excess soil, but don’t wash them. Store them in a cool, dry place with good airflow, like a shed or garage, where temperatures stay around 50-60°F.

Check periodically for rot or shriveling, and discard any damaged pieces. Before replanting in spring, soak the corms in warm water for 24 hours to rehydrate them. This simple step helps jumpstart growth and ensures a robust crop.

By saving the best roots, you’ll maintain the quality of your taro for seasons to come.

Dividing Taro Plants to Create New Starts

Dividing mature taro plants is an easy way to expand your garden. In early spring, carefully dig up the plant and shake off excess soil to reveal the root system. Look for natural divisions where smaller corms or tubers are attached to the main plant.

Use a clean, sharp knife to separate them, ensuring each piece has at least one growing eye or shoot. Replant the divisions immediately in rich, moist soil, burying them 2-3 inches deep. Keep the soil consistently damp but not waterlogged.

Within weeks, you’ll see new shoots emerging, giving you more plants for future harvests.

Starting Taro from Offsets and Suckers

Offsets and suckers are the quickest way to propagate taro without disturbing the main plant. Look for small shoots emerging around the base of mature plants. Gently remove them by hand or with a sterilized knife, ensuring they have some roots attached.

Plant the offsets in a pot or directly in the ground, keeping the soil moist and warm. They thrive in partial shade but can adapt to full sun if kept well-watered. Within a few weeks, the offsets will establish themselves and start growing.

This method is perfect for filling gaps in your garden or sharing taro starts with friends and neighbors.

Frequently Asked Questions

Conclusion

Regular weeding and fertilizing will ensure healthy growth. Harvest after 7-12 months when leaves yellow. With patience and care, you’ll enjoy fresh, homegrown taro—a versatile and delicious addition to your meals. Happy gardening!