How To Grow Shallots (Updated January 2nd)

Want to grow your own mild, flavorful shallots but unsure where to start? You’re in luck! These gourmet onion relatives are surprisingly easy to cultivate, even for beginners. Whether you have a spacious garden or just a few pots, we’ll walk you through everything you need to know for a bountiful harvest.

How to Grow Shallots from Seed or Sets

Choosing Between Seeds and Sets for Faster Harvests

Deciding between seeds and sets depends on your patience and timeline. Sets are small, immature bulbs that grow faster, often ready to harvest in just 90 days. They’re perfect for beginners or those wanting a quick crop.

Seeds, however, take longer—up to 120 days—but offer more variety and are less prone to bolting. If you’re in a rush, go with sets for a head start. But if you enjoy experimenting and don’t mind waiting, seeds can yield unique flavors. Choose sets for speed or seeds for diversity.

Keep in mind sets are easier to handle, while seeds require more care early on. Both methods will reward you with tasty shallots if you plan ahead.

Preparing the Soil for Optimal Bulb Development

Shallots thrive in loose, well-draining soil rich in organic matter. Start by clearing the area of weeds and rocks, then mix in compost or aged manure to boost nutrients. Aim for a slightly acidic to neutral pH (6.0–7.0) for best results.

Avoid heavy clay soil, as it can cause bulbs to rot. Work the soil to a depth of 6–8 inches to encourage proper bulb formation. If your soil is compact, consider raised beds to improve drainage. Add a balanced fertilizer before planting to give shallots a strong start.

Well-prepped soil ensures healthier bulbs and a bountiful harvest.

Step-by-Step Planting Guide for Shallots

Planting shallots is straightforward once you’ve prepped your soil. For sets, plant them pointed side up, 1 inch deep and 4–6 inches apart in rows spaced 12 inches apart. If using seeds, sprinkle them thinly in shallow trenches and cover lightly. Water gently after planting to settle the soil.

Keep the area moist but not waterlogged as they grow. Thin seedlings to 4 inches apart once they’re a few inches tall. Mulch around the plants to retain moisture and suppress weeds. In about 3–4 months, your shallots will be ready to harvest when tops yellow and fall over.

What Are the Best Conditions for Growing Shallots?

Sunlight Requirements: Full Sun vs. Partial Shade

When you’re planning to grow shallots, finding a spot with plenty of sunshine is the single most effective step you can take.

These bulbs absolutely thrive in full sun, which means they need at least six to eight hours of direct light each day to develop those flavorful, pungent layers we all love. More sun encourages stronger growth and helps the soil stay warm, which is essential for bulb formation.

While shallots are relatively hardy, they won’t produce as well if stuck in heavy shadow. However, if you live in a region with extremely hot afternoon heat, a little partial shade during the hottest part of the day can actually prevent the plants from scorching or bolting too early.

Just remember, the goal is consistent light, so avoid planting them under tall trees or near fences that block the sun for most of the daylight hours.

Ideal Temperature and Planting Zones

Shallots are surprisingly adaptable cool-season crops that prefer the Goldilocks zone of temperatures—not too freezing, but certainly not scorching hot. They grow best when daytime temperatures hover between 45°F and 75°F, making them perfect for early spring or late autumn planting.

Generally, shallots thrive in USDA Hardiness Zones 5 through 10, allowing gardeners in most climates to succeed. In colder northern zones, plant sets in early spring as soon as the ground can be worked to get a jump on the season.

Conversely, in milder southern climates, you can plant them in the autumn for a late winter harvest.

It is crucial to plant early enough so the bulbs establish themselves before the intense heat of summer arrives, as high temperatures can halt growth and negatively impact the flavor and storage life of your harvest.

Soil pH and Drainage Needs

To get the biggest and best shallots, you really need to focus on the dirt they are growing in because soggy soil is a recipe for disaster.

Shallots demand excellent drainage to prevent the bulbs from rotting before they fully mature, so avoid heavy clay or areas where water pools after a rain. They prefer a loose, sandy loam soil that makes it easy for the bulbs to expand.

Aim for a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH level between 6.0 and 7.0 for optimal nutrient uptake. Before planting, work in plenty of organic compost or well-rotted manure to improve soil texture and fertility.

This not only helps with drainage but also provides the nutrients necessary for developing robust bulbs. If your soil is heavy, consider raised beds to ensure the excess water drains away efficiently, keeping your shallots healthy and dry.

Watering and Feeding Your Shallot Crop

How Often to Water Shallots During Different Growth Stages

Watering shallots correctly is key to a bountiful harvest. When first planting, keep the soil consistently moist to help bulbs establish roots. Once they sprout, reduce watering to about 1 inch per week, either from rainfall or manual watering.

During dry spells, water deeply to encourage strong root growth, but avoid waterlogging, which can cause rot. As the bulbs mature in late spring, ease up on watering to let them cure properly. If the soil feels dry 2 inches down, it’s time to water again.

A drip irrigation system or soaker hose works wonders to deliver moisture directly to the roots without wetting the foliage, reducing disease risks. Remember, shallots prefer well-draining soil, so adjust your watering based on weather and soil type to prevent issues.

Best Fertilizers for Shallots and When to Apply Them

Shallots thrive with a little extra nutrition. Before planting, mix compost or well-rotted manure into the soil to give them a solid start. Once the greens reach 6 inches tall, apply a balanced fertilizer (like a 10-10-10) to support leafy growth.

Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers, which can lead to lush foliage but small bulbs. About a month before harvest, switch to a low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus fertilizer to encourage bulb development. Side-dress the plants by sprinkling fertilizer along the row and gently working it into the soil.

Always water after feeding to help nutrients reach the roots. Organic options like fish emulsion or bone meal work well too. Just don’t overfeed—shallots are light eaters, and too much fertilizer can hurt bulb formation.

Mulching Techniques to Retain Moisture

Mulching is a game-changer for shallots. Once the plants are a few inches tall, spread a 2-3 inch layer of straw, shredded leaves, or grass clippings around the base. This helps retain moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature.

Mulch also keeps the soil cool during hot spells, preventing stress on the bulbs. Avoid piling mulch directly against the stems, as this can invite rot. Instead, leave a small gap around each plant. If you’re growing shallots in a dry climate, replenish the mulch mid-season to maintain coverage.

In wetter areas, a thinner layer may suffice to prevent excess moisture. Mulching not only saves you time on watering but also boosts soil health as it breaks down. It’s a simple step that pays off with bigger, healthier shallots.

Essential Maintenance: Weeding and Pruning

Effective Weeding Strategies to Prevent Competition

Weeding is a critical part of learning how to grow shallots, as these plants dislike competition for nutrients and water. Shallow-rooted weeds can easily steal resources, stunting your shallot bulbs’ growth. Start by hand-pulling weeds gently to avoid disturbing the shallots’ shallow root systems.

For larger areas, a light hoeing between rows works wonders, but keep the tool just below the surface to prevent damage. Applying a layer of organic mulch, like straw or shredded leaves, around your plants will suppress weed growth and retain soil moisture.

Mulch also keeps the soil cool, which shallots appreciate. Aim to weed regularly, especially in the early stages when shallots are establishing themselves. Consistency is key—spending just 10-15 minutes weekly will save you from a overwhelming weed problem later.

By staying on top of weeds, you ensure your shallots have the best chance to thrive and produce plump, flavorful bulbs for harvest.

How to Handle Shallot Flowers and Bolting

If your shallots send up flower stalks, a process called bolting, it’s usually a sign of stress from temperature fluctuations or inconsistent watering. While flowering can divert energy from bulb development, it doesn’t ruin your crop.

Simply snip off the flower stalk as soon as you spot it to redirect the plant’s energy back into bulb growth. Use clean scissors or pruners to make a clean cut near the base.

Bolting is more common in varieties planted too early or exposed to cold snaps, so timing your planting can help prevent it. Don’t worry if some shallots bolt—the bulbs will still be edible, though they may not store as long. For future crops, choose bolt-resistant varieties and ensure consistent moisture.

If you let a few plants flower intentionally, you can save the seeds, but most gardeners remove them to maximize bulb size. Quick action keeps your shallots focused on growing, not reproducing.

Thinning Shallot Seedlings for Bigger Bulbs

Thinning is essential if you’ve grown shallots from seeds, as overcrowding leads to smaller bulbs. Once seedlings are a few inches tall, thin them out to leave about 2-4 inches of space between plants. This ensures each shallot has enough room to expand without competing for nutrients.

Gently pull the weaker seedlings, leaving the strongest to mature. If you’re planting sets (immature bulbs), spacing them 6 inches apart upfront eliminates the need for thinning later. Thinned seedlings can be used as a delicate garnish in salads, so nothing goes to waste.

Regularly check your plants throughout the growing season—if you notice any crowding, thin again to promote airflow and reduce disease risk. Proper spacing is one of the simplest ways to encourage larger, healthier bulbs. Remember, shallots grown from sets typically mature faster and require less maintenance than those from seeds.

Thinning is a small effort that pays off big at harvest time.

Common Pests and Diseases Affecting Shallots

Identifying and Treating Onion Root Maggots

Onion root maggots can be a real headache when you’re trying to grow healthy shallots. These tiny white larvae burrow into the bulbs, causing the plants to wilt and yellow prematurely. To spot them, look for wilting leaves or holes in the developing bulbs.

If you notice damage, remove affected plants immediately to stop the spread. A simple solution is to use sticky traps near the soil to catch adult flies before they lay eggs. You can also sprinkle diatomaceous earth around the base of your plants to deter larvae.

Rotating your crops each year is another smart move to keep these pests away. With a little vigilance, you can protect your shallot crop from these destructive pests and enjoy a bountiful harvest.

Preventing Fungal Diseases like Downy Mildew

Fungal diseases like downy mildew thrive in damp, humid conditions, so keeping your shallots dry is key. Downy mildew shows up as yellowish patches on leaves, which can stunt growth and reduce yields. To prevent this, space your shallots properly to ensure good airflow and avoid overhead watering.

Water at the base of the plants early in the day so leaves dry quickly. If you spot signs of fungus, remove infected leaves right away and apply a neem oil spray, which works well as a natural fungicide.

Mulching can also help keep soil moisture consistent while reducing splashing onto leaves. These simple steps will keep your shallots healthy and disease-free throughout the growing season.

Natural Pest Deterrents for Organic Gardens

Keeping pests off your shallots doesn’t have to mean harsh chemicals. Natural deterrents can be just as effective and safer for your garden. One easy trick is planting companion plants like carrots or lettuce, which can confuse pests looking for shallots.

You can also make a simple spray using garlic or hot pepper to repel insects without harming your plants. Another great option is introducing beneficial insects like ladybugs or lacewings, which feast on aphids and other pests. Regularly inspecting your plants and removing any pests by hand also works wonders.

With these organic methods, you can grow shallots sustainably while keeping unwanted visitors at bay.

When and How to Harvest Shallots

Signs That Shallots Are Ready for Harvest

Knowing when to harvest shallots is key to getting the best flavor and storage life. Keep an eye on the tops—when about 50-75% of the green foliage turns yellow and starts to flop over, your shallots are likely ready.

This usually happens in mid-to-late summer, depending on when you planted them. Gently dig around one bulb to check its size; mature bulbs should feel firm and have papery skins. Avoid waiting too long, as overripe shallots can split or rot.

If rain is forecast, consider harvesting earlier to prevent moisture-related issues. Harvesting at the right time ensures sweeter, more flavorful bulbs that store well. Patience is essential, but don’t let them sit too long in wet soil, as this can damage the crop.

Proper Techniques for Lifting and Curing Bulbs

To harvest, use a garden fork to carefully loosen the soil around the bulbs, avoiding damage to their delicate skins. Pull them up gently, shaking off excess dirt. Lay the shallots in a warm, dry, well-ventilated spot out of direct sunlight for 7-14 days to cure.

This process hardens the skins and enhances their storage potential. Avoid washing them, as moisture can lead to rot. If weather permits, cure them outdoors; otherwise, a covered porch or garage works well.

Once the skins feel crisp and the necks are completely dry, trim the tops to about an inch and brush off any remaining soil. Proper curing ensures your shallots stay fresh and flavorful for months.

Storing Shallots for Long-Term Freshness

After curing, store shallots in a cool, dark, and dry place with good airflow. Mesh bags, wooden crates, or braided bundles work great for storage. Aim for temperatures between 35-50°F (1-10°C) and humidity below 70% to prevent sprouting or rotting.

Avoid storing them in plastic, as trapped moisture can cause decay. Check your stash regularly and use any soft or damaged bulbs first. With proper storage, shallots can last 6-8 months or longer. For longer preservation, consider freezing or pickling chopped shallots.

By following these steps, you’ll enjoy homegrown shallots well into winter, adding fresh flavor to your meals.

Troubleshooting Common Shallot Growing Problems

Why Are My Shallots Small or Not Bulbing?

If your shallots aren’t bulbing or stay tiny, they likely need more time or better conditions. Patience is key because shallots take a long season to mature, often around 100 days. Harvesting too early results in small bulbs with no papery skins.

Check if they’re getting full sun; shade leads to weak growth. Also, overcrowding restricts bulb expansion, so thin seedlings to 4-6 inches apart. Poor soil fertility is another culprit. Before planting, mix in compost or a balanced fertilizer to provide consistent nutrients.

Lastly, ensure you aren’t overwatering, as this encourages leafy growth rather than bulb development. Let the soil dry out slightly between waterings to signal the plant to focus its energy on the bulb. With proper spacing, sunlight, and patience, you’ll see robust bulbs.

Dealing with Splitting or Double Bulbs

Splitting or double bulbs usually happen due to irregular watering or stress. Shallots prefer consistent moisture, so avoid letting the soil completely dry out between heavy rains. Fluctuations in hydration cause the bulbs to crack or separate.

Planting too early in cold, wet soil can also damage the growing tip, leading to multiple small shoots instead of one solid bulb. Always wait until the soil is workable and warm. Another cause is excessive nitrogen, which promotes rapid, soft growth that splits easily.

Stick to a balanced fertilizer rather than high-nitrogen options. To prevent this, mulch around your plants to regulate soil moisture and temperature. If you notice splitting, harvest immediately and use those shallots fresh since they won’t store well. Consistent care is the best defense.

Solutions for Rotting Shallots in the Ground

Rotting shallots are a heartbreaking sign of fungal issues or poor drainage. Shallots hate wet feet, and sitting in waterlogged soil quickly leads to basal rot or mold. If your soil is heavy clay, amend it generously with sand or organic matter to improve drainage.

Consider raised beds if drainage is a persistent problem. Crop rotation is also essential to prevent soil-borne fungi from building up. Never plant shallots or onions in the same spot two years in a row. Remove and destroy any rotting bulbs immediately to stop the spread to healthy plants.

Avoid overwatering, especially as the bulbs approach maturity, since excess moisture invites disease. Ensuring good air circulation by proper spacing also helps the foliage dry out quickly after rain, keeping the bulbs safe and healthy underground.

Frequently Asked Questions

When is the best time to plant shallots?

Shallots are best planted in late autumn or early spring, depending on your climate. In cooler regions, fall planting allows them to establish roots before winter for an early summer harvest. In warmer areas, spring planting is ideal to avoid frost damage.

How deep should shallot bulbs be planted?

Plant shallot bulbs about 1 inch deep, with the root end facing down. Space them 4-6 inches apart in rows to allow room for growth. Cover loosely with soil and firm gently to ensure good contact.

What kind of soil do shallots need?

Shallots thrive in well-draining, fertile soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. Avoid heavy clay or waterlogged soil, as this can cause rot. Adding organic matter like compost improves soil structure and nutrients.

How often should I water shallots?

Water shallots consistently, keeping the soil evenly moist but not soggy. About 1 inch of water per week is sufficient, adjusted for rainfall. Reduce watering as the bulbs mature to prevent rot and encourage drying.

When and how should I harvest shallots?

Harvest shallots when the tops turn yellow and begin to fall over, typically in mid to late summer. Gently lift the bulbs with a fork, being careful not to damage them. Cure them in a dry, airy spot for 1-2 weeks before storing.

Can I grow shallots from seeds instead of bulbs?

Yes, shallots can be grown from seeds, but they take longer to mature than bulb-grown shallots. Start seeds indoors 8-10 weeks before the last frost date. Transplant seedlings outdoors after hardening them off.

Do shallots need full sun?

Yes, shallots require full sun to grow well, ideally 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily. Insufficient light can result in smaller bulbs. Avoid planting in shaded areas for the best yield.